A surfer from Noosa's sun drenched shores obsessed with the dark world of gothic horror, Jai Lee's personal struggles and addiction to noseriding have twisted his creativity. Words: Chris Preston Photos: Thomas Robinson (pp 1&3), Andy Staley (pp4)and Dane Peterson

When his career as a pro surfer was ended by cancer, Richie Lovett forged a new career in the manufacturing industry. Now he's singing the praises of machine-shaping technology. Words: Chris Preston Photos: Jamie Bott

Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, Tracks, and director of 'Morning of the Earth', Alby Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Courtesy of Alby Falzon

A shaper with a real passion for his craft, Tyler Hatzikian has consistently refused to compromise the quality or the integrity of his work in order to make a quick buck. He talked to Drift about nose-riding, refining longboard design and his reluctance to take the limelight. Words & photos: Jamie Bott

Meeting a legend is something few people have the opportunity to do. During a short stay in California last winter Dave Muir created his own luck in finding Skip Frye at home. He was welcomed in to take a look around. Words: Dave Muir Photos: Dave Muir and Skip Frye

From cliff-top vantage points to harbour hop-offs, beach-side hammocks to unglamorous car parks, Mat Arney raids his photo archive to document a different perspective in surfing

Rusty Long Inner-Views

October 25, 2012 | Words By: Sam Smith

Rusty Long has become a fixture in the world of big wave surfing. While tow surfing has taken the mainstage over the past decade, he and his brother Greg have been pushing the limits of paddling into waves.


Unassisted by jet ski and choosing to use only their own two hands like the North Shore pioneers, these guys have helped reinvent the sport. In this new episode of InnerViews, we explore Rusty’s little known story of recovery from being severely burned last year in Mexico. This project was a collaboration with Derek Dunfee, Cyrus Sutton and Erik Derman.

Rusty Long - InnerViews from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.

 

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