I remember my first real wipe out. I’d not long mastered the vertical and was eager to start crossing the face of a wave on my newly purchase nine footer. I’d worked my way through the wash and was sitting proud – albeit a little unsteadily – at the end of the line-up, on a not-so-spectacular day.
It was a glorious dawn: the sun rising from behind the Pyrenees, a sky so blue sapphires hid themselves in shame, the air hot and clean and heady with alpine aromas. (Photo by Iona Calvert.)
Or the reality of life as a piss poor paddler…
Comfortable isolation
Noosa Noseriding champ Christian Wach swaps so-Cal surf for the frozen waters of Nova Scotia.
2+1=3?
Dan Crockett charts Adrian Phillips’ construction of a semi-gun.
The Mentawais: a photo essay
The Mentawais have given a lot to surfers from around the globe. It's time to give something back.
Living the dream, on credit
Johnny Abegg proves that a relentlessly positive outlook can see you through the toughest times.
A greener wave
Mark Sankey explores the possibilities for today's 'eco' boards. Photos: Alexa Poppe
Searching for the new cool
Filmmaker Cyrus Sutton explains every surfer's right to be joyously selfish.
