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...in the age of the programmable hand. San Diego's Josh Hall explains why he has chosen to tread the well-worn path of hand-shaping, in conversation with Andy Smith. Photos: Garrett Highhouse, T. Colla, Ryan Tatar

Drift caught up with big-wave surfer Carlos Burle on home territory in Brazil to find out why he considers big-wave riding to be a playground for the few who have earned the privilege. Photos: Al McKinnon

Chris Preston chats to longboard maestro Steve Walden about his disappointment with the lack of recognition for the longboarding scene, what makes the Magic model magic, and working with GSI. Photos: Jamie Bott

Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, Tracks, and director of 'Morning of the Earth', Alby Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Courtesy of Alby Falzon

Devastated by more than a decade of civil war, the Republic of Liberia is still in a serious state of flux. Could surfing bring a new hope and more peaceful future to this West African nation? Words & photos: Nicholai Lidow & Kate Thomas. Additional photos: Ted Grambeau & Jamie Bott

When his career as a pro surfer was ended by cancer, Richie Lovett forged a new career in the manufacturing industry. Now he's singing the praises of machine-shaping technology. Words: Chris Preston Photos: Jamie Bott

Joe Curren is the surfing equivalent of old growth, his style in the water and behind a lens is deeply rooted, contemplative and quietly powerful. Jair Bortoleto caught up with Joe to talk about family, travel, and shooting analogue in the digital age. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Joe Curren

Crime and punishment, it's all relative. A brush with the law is nothing more for most of us than a speeding fine or curt telling off, but we're a very privileged bunch... Words & photos: Carly Lorente

Rebel wave riders on a mission to enlighten the Western world to the true culture of the Middle East, blakkbox redefine the notion of surfers as beach bums who only care about the next wave. Photos: Cole Estrada & Anthony Allen

Tucked away at the top of a hill near Gwenver beach in Cornwall, Skewjacks was the definitive 1970s surf camp. Drift took four of its founding fathers - Dicky, Harvey, Jamo and Mickey - to the pub and reminisced about good times gone by. Words: Jamie Bott Credit & thanks to Graham Shephard & Mel Sedgwick

Jeff Divine remembers the time when surfers were akin to outlaws, and his photographs capture the days of uncrowded line-ups, good vibes and barefoot living. Words: Michael Fordham Photos: Jeff Divine

Dane Peterson and Belinda Peterson-Baggs recently travelled to Indonesia with aid supplies that are still much in demand nearly four years after the tsunami... Words: Belinda Peterson-Baggs Photos: Dane Peterson; Adam Kobayashi

In early 2008, longtime buddies Billy Hume, Jeff Myers, Joey Carter and Ben McBrien got together for a trip off the beaten track trip in search of waves and adventure. They headed for the icy waters of Alaska... Words: Jeff Myers Photos: Nick LaVecchia

From WQS warrior to independent filmmaker via a AUS$27,000 debt, Johnny Abegg has trod an unconventional path through life so far, and proves that a relentlessly positive outlook and upbeat character can see you through the toughest times... Words: Mark Sankey Photos: Johnny Abegg

Bing Copeland was a pioneer of the modern surf industry. In his excellent new retrospective, ‘Bing Surfboards – Fifty Years of Craftsmanship and Innovation’, Paul Holmes discovered what makes Bing tick. Words: Bing Copeland & Paul Holmes Photos: Courtesy of Bing Copeland

One of the great things about surfing in this current era is the wide acceptance of different board designs. Over the last 10 years, it has become acceptable to pretty much ride anything from surfmat to singlefin, fish to longboard. Words: Chris Preston Photo (2): Dan Crockett

Looking to the future with an eye firmly on the past, Tom Wegener has reintroduced the transport of kings to surfing's elite. His boards are works of art, but it's his veg patch that really floating Tom's boat right now... Words: Tommy Leitch Photos: Jamie Bott

When legendary longboard designer Bob McTavish came to Devon recently as part of TIKI's international shaper tour, Chris Preston couldn't resist the opportunity to quiz him about the technicalities of board design... Photos: Jamie Bott

Two of the most influential people on the surf-inspired art scene, Jeff Raglus and Gerry Wedd have been making their mark on everything from surfboards to teapots since the 1970s. Thirty years later, they're still as productive as ever... Words: Tommy Leitch Photos: Jamie Bott

Using locally sourced timber and having designed a manufacturing process that minimises waste, Mike LaVecchia of Grain Surfboards has cornered the market in beautiful, sustainable wooden boards. And the best bit? They ride like a dream. Photos: Nick LaVecchia

The annual Fish Fry on Australia’s Gold Coast gives shapers a non-commercial, non-competitive opportunity to come together and share ideas in a shameless celebration of the fabulous fish. Words: Tommy Leitch Photos: Jamie Bott

Cyrus Sutton made an impression on the international film circuit with his 2003 breakthrough movie 'Riding Waves'. Now the EMMY award-winning documentary maker has turned his attention to the divergent surf scenes of Australia's Gold Coast and Byron Bay. Words: Tommy Leitch Photos: Courtesy of Cyrus Sutton

Drift tracked down Mark Jeremias and Jason Baffa, directors of ‘Singlefin: Yellow’, to talk about their new project, ‘One California Day’, and find out their thoughts on surf culture and tradition from Crescent City to Imperial Beach. Words: Jamie Bott

Al Knost is one of the best sliders around and has a close connection with a scene far removed from the modern marketplace hustle. Ryan Tatar tracked him down with his project partner Tyler Manson and gave us an insight into their freshest work. Words: Ryan Tatar Photos: Jamie Bott & Tyler Manson

A shaper with a real passion for his craft, Tyler Hatzikian has consistently refused to compromise the quality or the integrity of his work in order to make a quick buck. He talked to Drift about nose-riding, refining longboard design and his reluctance to take the limelight. Words & photos: Jamie Bott

//end second call for randoms ?>

One million dollars

October 02, 2009 | Words By: eduardo

foto: dani miquelEs muy común que las personas fantaseen con lo que harían si les tocara la lotería. (Fotos: Dani Miquel.)

En más de una ocasión he visto a una familia o grupo de amigos haciendo un reparto imaginario entre los distintos bienes en los que invertirían el premio… casi como un juego ilusionado. División entre familiares directos, casas, coches, viajes, etc., y todo relamiéndose, saboreando la seguridad económica y la supuesta tranquilidad que la acompaña o, sencillamente, con un terrible februchón consumista.

Es divertido y reconozco hacerlo de vez en cuando, sin embargo, hay una variante de este juego con la que disfruto mucho más. ¿Qué dos cosas desearía hacer un surfero con dinero? Por supuesto, lo planteo en términos poco solidarios. No hablamos de salvar el mundo, donaciones a ONGs… para eso también habrá. ¿Qué dos cosas? A mi se me ocurren las siguientes: En primer lugar, coger muchas olas y por lo tanto, viajar a los mejores spots. En segundo lugar, diseñar un quiver perfecto.

foto: dani miquelUN QUIVER PERFECTO… Es ahí donde yo quería llegar. Este quiver estará sujeto a unos parámetros espacio-temporales. Por un lado, el tipo de tablas que deseamos está muy condicionado por las olas que surfeamos habitualmente, o por lo menos debería estarlo. Por otro, depende del momento que atraviese tu surfing. Esto úlimo es lo que motiva que no coincida mi QUIVER PERFECTO de hoy con el de hace un año. Y es esa evolución permanente – no entendida como progresión en tu nivel, sino como cambios de mentalidad – una de las cosas que le da frescura y diversión al surfing. Poder utilizar distintos tipos de tablas dependiendo de las olas, tu nivel, estado físico, mentalidad o pretensiones y demás factores, y que el inevitable cambio de éstos modifique tus gustos.

Llegados a este punto es cuando tres amigos nos sentamos en los maleteros abiertos de nuestros coches, aun mojados, después de un baño de esos que se pueden olvidar, y nos preguntamos: ¿Cuál sería tu QUIVER PERFECTO? Sin límites, respondo. No más de diez… Pienso y ahí va mi lista:

5’6” Mini Simmons Casper de Swift Surfboards
5’8” Twin keel de Skip Frye
6’0” Stubby 2+1 Mandala Surfboards
6’0” Bumble Bee Campbell Brothers Surfboards
6’1” Pumpkin Seed de Michel Junod
6’2” Siglo de Klaus Jones
6’4” Widowmaker de Neal Parchase Jr
6’6” Hull “MP” Liddle
9’2” In The Pink de Donald Takayama
9’6” Big Fish de Josh Hall

Este sería mi QUIVER PERFECTO a día de hoy. Muy en la onda actual. Para ser utilizado porque no me interesa tener un repaso a la historia del surfing, sino tablas que realmente vaya a disfrutar. La semana que viene igual tendría algún cambio y el año que viene, seguramente, sería muy diferente. Reconozco ser muy inestable en esto de las tablas. Además, entiendo que es un quiver incompleto desde el punto de vista de muchos surferos. No abarca todo tipo de olas y se echa en falta un simple thruster… pero cada uno con sus fantasías.

foto: dani miquelEs un juego divertido por un rato pero algo frustrante si no sabe uno pasar página. Aunque tal vez, menos frustrante que lo de las casas, coches y demás bienes más comunes porque siempre nos quedará gozar de una buena sesión con esa TABLA MÁGICA que todo surfero debe tener en su quiver.

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