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Rob Lion of Royal Surfboards and Paul Smith of Glide Surfboards in Cork, Ireland meet with Zephaniah Carrigg, purveyor of functional and beautiful surf craft, on a recent visit to the island. Photos: Danny O'Callaghan

Luciano Burin catches up with Junior Faria, a pro surfer breaking the Brazilian mould, whose atmospheric photographs capture the happiness and freedom of surfing.

Mark Leary's latest work deviates sharply from the usual surf photography portfolio, celebrating as it does the commonplace, everyday aspects of surfing instead of monster swells and awesome barrels. Chris Preston chats to him about moments captured.

Cyrus Sutton made an impression on the international film circuit with his 2003 breakthrough movie 'Riding Waves'. Now the EMMY award-winning documentary maker has turned his attention to the divergent surf scenes of Australia's Gold Coast and Byron Bay. Words: Tommy Leitch Photos: Courtesy of Cyrus Sutton

Jeff Divine remembers the time when surfers were akin to outlaws, and his photographs capture the days of uncrowded line-ups, good vibes and barefoot living. Words: Michael Fordham Photos: Jeff Divine

Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, Tracks, and director of 'Morning of the Earth', Alby Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Courtesy of Alby Falzon


Experience otherness

November 14, 2009 | Words By: The CELL

openSurf trips are as much about the expanse of sky and the stars as they are about the horizon, water, the ocean and the waves. They’re as much about eating as about riding waves, and as much about walking as driving.

So many things chart the day to its plotted end: defamations, character assassinations, puns, Protean narratives. Perhaps it’s only through otherness that we fully realise the gamut of experience and what it truly means to place a value on things.

Even in pursuit of the image we rarely give anything over to the peripherals of the event; the event itself is always pre-possessed of an aesthetic of operations, a centring which usually marks out its composition around climax. As such, the details rarely sparkle. Perhaps culture is too hard for the softer edges; it desires the voyeuristic presence more than the ethereal. Much of these things are matters of perspective, but the common thread that binds us is the perception embodied in the experience of now. The writing becomes re-presentation, but the words – like the images – collect the shell of experience on our behalf; in so doing, these works themselves become a further experience of otherness.

In the spring of 2009, Ollie Banks, Steve Croft and I headed for the western isles. In the following autumn, Ollie Banks, Steve Crawford, Joss Wescombe, Rich Mathers and I returned. Two seasons apart, here’s a selection of perspectives that bridge generations.

Picture 1 of 13


[Joss slide/Ollie Banks] A new generation of twin-fin expression. It's great to see younger surfers like Joss Wescombe exploring things on their own terms, while giving a respective nod to other people and times.

Surfboards courtesy: Empire SurfboardsPlanck SurfboardsRoyal Surfboards

Wetsuits courtesy HOTLINE wetsuits

Clothing courtesy Finisterre


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