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Rob Lion of Royal Surfboards and Paul Smith of Glide Surfboards in Cork, Ireland meet with Zephaniah Carrigg, purveyor of functional and beautiful surf craft, on a recent visit to the island. Photos: Danny O'Callaghan

This isn't a shameless plug. This is an encounter with a British company doing something special with surfboards. While the industry is focused on the multi-buck movers and shakers parading their eco-wares, let's not forget our homegrown talent. Words: Howard Swanwick Photos: John Morgan and Jamie Bott

Drift caught up with big-wave surfer Carlos Burle on home territory in Brazil to find out why he considers big-wave riding to be a playground for the few who have earned the privilege. Photos: Al McKinnon

Ian Battrick and Tim Nunn take a journey around the North Atlantic isle of Iceland to put the finishing touches to their book, out this Autumn. Join them on their journey.
Photos Tim Nunn and Ian Battrick Words Tim Nunn

The Mentawais have given a lot to surfers; now it's time to give something back. Kate and Luke Gerson celebrate the beauty of these islands and highlight the continued need for aid following the recent earthquake.

Chris Preston chats to longboard maestro Steve Walden about his disappointment with the lack of recognition for the longboarding scene, what makes the Magic model magic, and working with GSI. Photos: Jamie Bott


The History of Surfing

August 13, 2010 | Words By: Staff Writer

History of Surfing Maybe an early Christmas present for your book worm surfing mate, written by one of the world’s leading surf historians, this nearly 500-page tome - with more than 300,000 words and 250 archival images - is the definitive book on surf history and culture.


Matt Warshaw knows a hell of a lot about surfing, and is up there with the most knowledgeable authors out there. After five years of research and writing, he has completed a totally unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With a voice that is definitive, funny, and wholly original, The History of Surfing is definitely worth a read. If you were lucky enough to get hold of Photo/Stoner you’ll know he’s got access to some rare material and knows how to handle it.

Matt Warshaw is the former editor of SURFER magazine. A surfer all his life, he is the author of several books on surfing, including The Encyclopedia of Surfing, Maverick’s, Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing’s Greatest Photographer, and Zero Break: An Illustrated Collection of Surf Writing 1777-2004. £35.00 and released in October.

History of Surfing



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