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Rob Lion of Royal Surfboards and Paul Smith of Glide Surfboards in Cork, Ireland meet with Zephaniah Carrigg, purveyor of functional and beautiful surf craft, on a recent visit to the island. Photos: Danny O'Callaghan

Jeff Divine remembers the time when surfers were akin to outlaws, and his photographs capture the days of uncrowded line-ups, good vibes and barefoot living. Words: Michael Fordham Photos: Jeff Divine

In Florianopolis - Brazil's surf capital - during prime swell season, an incomplete line-up gets Clare Howdle thinking... (Photos 2, 3, 4&8: André Côrtes; photos 1&7: Zander Grinfeld, www.venncreative.co.uk)

Joe Curren is the surfing equivalent of old growth, his style in the water and behind a lens is deeply rooted, contemplative and quietly powerful. Jair Bortoleto caught up with Joe to talk about family, travel, and shooting analogue in the digital age. Words: Jair Bortoleto Photos: Joe Curren

The alaia has become something of a shining star in recent years. Mark Sankey shares a photo essay of Cornish alaia riders. Photos: Lionel Duffau, taken at Crantock and Bundoran.

From cliff-top vantage points to harbour hop-offs, beach-side hammocks to unglamorous car parks, Mat Arney raids his photo archive to document a different perspective in surfing


Changing my mind

November 06, 2009 | Words By: Alexa

saturday-action-openMe and competitions don’t usually mix well. Very often the waves are disappointing and I get so nervous I can’t even surf. I enjoy the freedom of simply surfing far more than competing.

However, I’ve been thinking for some time now that I really should be entering more competitions, so with the prospect of good waves I entered myself in the Jesus Longboard Classic.

On my arrival in Polzeath, early Saturday morning, the sun was smiling down and the surf was small but glassy, setting the scene for a classic autumnal day.

With cash prizes on offer, the Jesus Longboard Classic is a popular event and all the well-known names in competitive longboarding turned up. What I enjoyed about this contest was not only that the level of modern longboarding was so high, but also that some of the juniors and open guys chose to ride more traditional equipment, which I think illustrates the open-mindedness of today’s longboarder.

I had a fun warm-up surf at low tide, but my heat was the last of the day and the wave quality had faded a bit with the high tide. Nevertheless, I got through my heat in second place and into a place in the semis.

The surf picked up on Sunday and the wind was still in our favour. With good, clean, head-high waves, the standard of surfing was exceptional, and it was great to see the upcoming talent snapping at the heels of Bleakers, Skinner, Griffith et al. The women’s race was hotly contested too, and I drew former BLU Champions Dominque Kent and Nicola Bunt in my next heat, but with a couple of good waves I made it through to the final.

womens-finalistI was so stoked to make the final that I lost my focus a little, and with fewer waves coming through I made the mistake of waiting in the wrong spot for waves that never came. In the end I finished fourth, which was a bit disappointing, but I got a little trophy and came out of the experience with a more positive view of competitions.


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